"The problem with Bolivians is that everyone wants to be involved in politics"

... this is according to my boss, Fernando. This is a problem because politicians just want to figure out how they can skim off the system instead of doing "real work" (in fairness this is partially true I think; in every country, not just Bolivia). People are definitely heavily involved in politics here; hunger strikes and protests seem to be the rule, not the exception to it. Right now people are protesting the move by Evo Morales to "force an agreement" in the constitutional assembly that requires a simple majority vote to approve a new constitution, instead of the 2/3 vote that was originally mandated in the assembly. The article I read didn't say how Evo "forced" that agreement, but it happened three weeks ago, and there are still hungers strikes around the nation in protest, and you see people sporting t-shirts with large, colorful "2/3" decals. Contrary to what we might consider common sense, and contrary to what is reported in our media, "business interests" and "foreign investors" aren't the only ones opposed to Evo Morales and his socialist MAS party: the strikers in the country today are comprised mostly of students, and also of business leaders and even union leaders, such as Mineworkers' Union leader Juan Lechin Weisse. According to a Knight-Ridder Tribune article, "the hunger strikers include 13 of the country's 27 senators, four of the nine governors (I assume representing the four departments of Santa Cruz, Beni, Tarija, and Pondo, the departments pushing for greater independence in the new constitution), local mayors, powerful businessmen, poor farmers and even Miss Bolivia." The situation has resulted in violence in several circumstances, such as last Tuesday when supporters of MAS forced their way into a church in downtown La Paz and forced out hunger strikers using sticks and even explosives. "Rampaging youths" beat up government supporters on Wednesday and Thursday in Santa Cruz. But despite all of this being reported in local and international media (thank you Pro Quest), I haven't actually seen any of this going on. In fact, I read about a rally planned supporting the recently passed land-redistribution legislation, but I went and nothing was happening. It's hard to keep on top of the political situation when there's no English-language media in the country, and since there's no political commentary aimed at the 4-year-old level, my Spanish just isn't up to the task.

One of the contentious issues Morales wants included in the new constitution would give special political rights to Indians (Morales is a native Aymaran), which would allow him to remain president past his term, which is set to expire in 2011 (apparently you only get one term in Bolivia, but I'm not totally sure. Local papers never say this stuff since I guess most people know it already). Morales currently enjoys a 60-65 percent approval rating, but the country seems to be becoming increasingly divided. Even poor farmers in the east seem concerned that their land will be seized under some pretext or another. Neither side seems willing to yield ground, but something will have to happen to release some of the pent-up opposition pressure, or Bolivia faces the prospect of its social fabric unraveling. Morales holds most of the cards, so it's up to him, really.


So I'm beginning to tire of Coroico. I think part of it is because I want to start making a movie (but not here), and another part is because Fernando isn't much fun, and his wife is less fun. Much less fun. She asked me today "when will you be done with your room?" I didn't even know how to answer, or if I had understood the Spanish correctly since the question seemed so strange. When I'm done working I guess? "Because we need the room for New Years." Ah, I see. You wish I was gone and probably that I was dead (keep in mind that the only other thing she's ever said to me is "you have to pay for internet," and that our primary interaction is her scowling at me). And here's a couple exchanges I had with Fernando today that are typical: he likes to start a lot of his sentences with "see, the problem with Bolivia is..." Today it was "... that no one has any work ethic. It's like you hire people to be waiters, and they just want to hang around and talk with the other waiters instead of figuring out what else they could be doing." First, let me remind you that the hotel is all buffet, and all the three waiters do is clear plates for the 8 people eating (refilling food isn't even an issue). Second, I hate to break it to you Fernando, but low-wage workers everyplace in the world prefer talking to each other to "figuring out what else they could do," especially when they're working 16 hour days 7 days a week.

Also today I asked Fernando today if I need to be careful to keep the wood varnish off the glass or the paint, and he launched into a lengthy explanation about how if you get gasoline on the varnish it will ruin it. OK, I'll scratch my plans to mix Molotov cocktails in the room I guess... but what about the windows and new paint? A couple people have asked me if he smokes pot, which I hadn't considered since he seems pretty conservative, but it would go a long way to explaining some of his mannerisms.

If anyone wanted to send me a Christmas Card, don't bother sending it here (Coroico), since I'll be gone in a week or so. As soon as I figure out post restante information for La Paz, I'll let y'all know.