Brazil it aint
After what I am now understanding are the regular delays associated with air travel in Brazil, I arrived in Natal, and got the bus to Pipa. I was a little taken aback when I walked down the street to find a hostel though - the narrow, cobble-stoned streets are choked with traffic, both pedestrian and vehicular (and lots of dune buggies); upscale, expensive shops sell beach clothes and jewelry; and shiek restaurants serve up crepes, pizza, and expensive drinks. Wealthy-looking European families strolled down the street with kids in tow. I thought I was going to a Brazilian beach town, but it's more like Generic Beach Resort where the people happen to speak Portuguese. Apparently most of the houses here are owned by wealthy Europeans, and even most of the Brazilians here aren't from the area - they just come here to work. So OK, a little disappointing, and not the kind of place that is normally on my itinerary. But I scheduled 10 days here, and already have my air travel booked, so I'll just have to make the most of it.
Pipa is basically one road that runs parallel to the beaches, which are just a short walk down the cliffs. And they're pretty spectacular; several crescents of perfect white sand carved out of multicolored cliffs with lava lamp rings of red and beige. I haven't seen the dolphins yet, but apparently they are around and I can expect to see them at my surf lesson tomorrow, swimming nearby. I got off to a slow start on the surfing due to a quick start on the partying (which consists of going to The Bar and then later to The Club and drinking caparinhas, sour little beasts made out of lime, a little sugar, and the local swill distilled from sugar cane). I got invited to a house party my second night here, although it was in a new house that a Spanish guy bought, so I can't really say it was a Brazilian party.
There is some live music tonight at The Club, but it doesn't start until 1am, so I can't decide if I should try and go see it or not - surfing starts at 9. But then, if you're going to be in Brazil you have to learn to dance...


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