Why being in touristy places is a huge frustrating mess

I was hanging out in the central plaza here in Cusco, and it's not nearly as much fun because you are constantly being asked to buy something, which makes enjoyable people-watching nearly impossible. The other reason this is frustrating is that instead of actually interacting with the local population - as in 'we had a conversation' - the tone is a constant opposing dichotomy of them trying to sell me something, and me trying to tell them no. So instead of learning about the places you're in, you instead learn to dread interaction with people, because all anyone wants is to shine my hiking boots. It's a tragic combination of terribly annoying and horribly saddening: an 8-year-old selling postcards, and inside the flap are Power Ranger stickers and in 8-year-old scrawl I read 'King Arthur'. It breaks my heart, but then he wants $5 for three postcards, and I remember Dharamsala, and all the elaborate beggar scams, especially involving kids, and I decline and my heart grows cold... what the hell is my responsibility in a place like this? I give money to the beggars, like I did to the lepers in Dharamsala, the people who so obviously live on the street and don't really have anything but mangy hair and the hope to eat that day. I guess I feel like if we all gave a little, there would be plenty, so if I give a little I'm doing my part. I mean I could empty my bank account and give it all away, and that wouldn't solve the problem; I can't solve the problem. Somewhere between giving everything and nothing lies the best answer I guess. The best answer, but not the right one.

But so many of the people here don't seem so desperate, and they just put me into that unwanted dichotomy I was talking about: last night I was in the plaza, and this guy approached me with a jimbay drum, a younger guy with a piercing in that area below your lower lip (I'm sure there's a name for it, and I'm sure I don't know it), looked kind of hippyish for Peru. He said hello, we did a little hand-slap, he asked me where I was from, and I figured 'in about 45 seconds he's going to either try and sell me that drum, or try and get me to play it and then try and sell it to me' (this happened in India). But he really fooled me. Instead of trying to sell me the drum, he tried to sell me a tour of the Inca Trail. He pulled out a map, and some pictures, and got really excited and began elucidating them for me with his half-inch-long cokehead pinky fingernail. The more he showed me, the more the finger was grossing me out. When he finished, he asked if I wanted to buy a tour (for $220). When I declined, he asked 'why not?' Now, I realize these people aren't MBA's, but it seems to me the first common-sense rule of business is not to alienate your customer. What, is there something wrong with you? How could you not want to give some guy on the street that keeps sniffing and rubbing his nose several hundred dollars? I just told him I wasn't interested, and then, sure enough, he offered to sell me drugs. I had a nearly identical experience 20 minutes later, albeit with a more mellow and likeable guy. But when he asked if I smoked pot and I said 'no' (see, I've learned!), he said 'oh. Well that's OK.' Thanks for the permission. And like I said above, the worst part about all this is that these could be cool guys. After they hit me up, I saw them with their friends, drumming and juggling and laughing, and I thought 'why not? It could be a great time.' But another, more conservative and sensible side said 'no way we're giving that coker $220.'

When I was in India volunteering at the rickshaw widow's community, there was no expectations that I would be constantly forking over money. My friends and I spent a day in the hot sun helping with manual labor alongside the Indians, and that was that. We had an understanding of the roles each would take, and we respected that. At the end of the day we all hugged and parted ways friends, each with a little better understanding of what it's like in the other persons shoes (although I guess we obviously got that more than they did). We chipped in our time, labor, and a cash donation to the community, and that was respected and welcomed. And that was great, it was one of the best days I spent in India. I would happily go back and give more time, effort and money. But you can't get a feeling like that when it feels like everyone just wants to score off of you. It's like a battle anytime anyone approaches you. I know that this is partially the inevitable result of being so rich compared to the rest of the world, but that doesn't mean it's not totally un-fun. I had the idea to try and turn a sale into a conversation, by asking non-product-related questions, and hopefully it will be evident that I'm not buying but I'm still interested. I imagine that at some point there will be a palpable drop of a facade will drop. The salesman, or the poor kid, or whatever mask is being worn comes off, and we can just relate as people. Who knows, I might even want my shoes shined after that. I witnessed this in Dharamsala via several hours of people-watching. I spent maybe three hours on one corner, and the beggar-women kept coming to me, and coming to me, and then they realized I wasn't giving, and they were just next to me, laughing and talking (according to the Tibetans these women are total scam artists). Unfortunately I didn't think of that until later when I was pondering the situation, but I don't doubt I'll have a chance to try it out.

I had another, more fun experience in the plaza too: I don't know if it's because of All Saints Day and school is out, or if the plaza is just always full of high school girls at night, but last night it sure was, and about 50 of them wanted to take their picture with me. Alone, in groups, in different groups, me in the front, me in the back... it was 'fun with the gringo' night, and now somewhere in Peru there are a bunch of pictures of me floating around. And while that was a lot more fun than Mr. Pinkie, I would still like to have some interaction with Peruvians that didn't involve sex, drugs, or money. I did get to have that at my hostel in Pisco, where our hosts made Pisco Sours for myself and two couples (Dutch... so many Dutch), and we chatted about our homes, and life, and shared pictures. And sure people visit Pisco, that's why there's hostels, but a lot of them are from Peru, and the vibe is just totally different.

It's the beginning of rainy season, and the storm clouds roll in and out of the valley like unhappy drifters, grumbling with thunder and looking for some out-of-the-way place to dispose of their rain. I like it more during the rainy 'low' season I think. Fewer tourists, and more dynamism to the weather - alternating hot sun and wet clouds. It gives the valley more of a pulse than the 7-days-a-week 70 degree sun of Arequipa. I'm seriously considering not hiking the Inca Trail or seeing Maccu Picchu, because it just feels so overblown and overhyped. Would that be totally crazy, to be mere miles from one of the greatest physical achievements of humanity and not go see it? People seem to enjoy the trail... at any rate, I've found a place that gives Spanish lessons and arranges homestays that seems quite good (they snagged me by telling me that we'll read fairy tales in class. Sounds a lot more fun than what we did in college!), so I think I'll do that for a couple weeks - learning Spanish is a major goal of mine while I'm here, and this seems like the best way to jump-start my learning.